My Favorite "secret" Park Spots

By Mark Wagner Lone Star Geyser via Wikimedia Commons

Having worked and played in nearly 200 parks, I've found a number of places and spots that are off the beaten path.  Places that are open to the public, but perhaps hidden gems. These spots provide unique opportunities for adventure, firsthand encounters with history, stunning scenery, wildlife interactions, opportunities for tranquility and much, much more. Here is my insider list of  the top "hidden" national park spots.

1. National Mall ~ Signers of the Constitution
Alright its probably hard to believe that anything can be hidden on the national mall.  The national park sites like the Lincoln Memorial, Washington Monument, and Vietnam Memorial welcome millions of visitors every year. I get it. There are roughly 20 national park sites on America's iconic front yard. But a little visited spot is to be found on the island in the middle of Constitution Gardens Pond. It's the understated memorial to the 56 signers of the Declaration of Independence. Most people miss this spot, as the shuffle back and forth between more popular sites like the Vietnam and World War II memorials. One can access the island from a small bridge found on the northern shore of the pond.  From the island one can learn about the 56 brave men who started America on its path to independence, while enjoying iconic views of the Washington Monument minus the crowds.

2. North Cascades ~ Stehekin
Stehekin is a secret spot, hidden in plain site. At the far end of the glacier carved Lake Chelan. Stehekin is a community of roughly 50 to 75 people in the Lake Chelan National Recreation Area. To access the town, one must ride a boat, take a plane or hike.  There is no road access. Some have called Stehekin "the most remote place in the continental United States." Stehekin has a general store, gift shop, restaurant, visitor center, hotel, and even a bakery. It's a recharging station for many hikers on the Pacific Crest Trail and a jumping off point for the North Cascades National Park. Don't miss Stehekin, but be prepared. It's not something seen in a couple hours.  If one wants to truly experience this hidden gem, plan to spend several days.

3. Wrangell St. Elias ~ Kennecott
This is the second of the places you really have to want to see to get there.  McCarthy is at the end of a 60 mile dirt road, heavily potholed and cratered. Some of likened the travel to McCarthy to that of driving on the moon. It's not for the faint of heart, or those susceptible to motion sickness. However, for those willing to take the risk, the reward is worth it. At the far end of the road (there is no gas along the way so come prepared), is the Kennecott mining district. Like Stehekin, Kennecott is a little, yet vibrant community, tucked away within millions of acres of pristine wilderness. In Kennecott, one can tour the Park Service visitor center, enjoy a cup of tea, and access the trail head for a fairly easy hike to Root glacier.

4. Glacier ~ Polebridge
This is the third you really have to want to go there spot on my list. Polebridge is the smallest of the three park tucked away communities. It's accessed by starting in Glacier's Apgar village on the west side of the park. Travel along the Camas road until it come to a T intersection with the outside North Fork Road. Take a right and drive next dozen miles of the alternating paved and dirt road until you hit Polebridge. Like Stehekin and Kennecott, Polebridge has a few amenities like a general store, restaurant, and hotel. But that's about it. Like Kennecott there is no gas at the end of the road and it's the least developed of the three communities. Polebridge is a great place to look for wildlife including wolves and grizzly bears, oh yeah and the pizza at the Northern Lights Saloon is fantastic!

5. Yellowstone ~ Lone Star Geyser
Lone Star Geyser is for those who want a opportunity to see a unique and fairly dramatic/regular geyser without the crowds of those say at Old Faithful. Lone Star Geyser can be found fittingly enough at the end of the Lone Star Geyser trail. The trail head is 3 1/2 miles south of Old Faithful on the Grand Loop road. Heading toward the West Thumb geyser basin, the trailhead is just past the parking for the Kepler Cascades. The trail is a five mile easy round trip. Pack water and a snack, and check with the rangers at Old Faithful for eruption times.

Okay, that's it. These are my top hidden national park gems.  Would love to hear yours.  Leave us a comment on your favorite out of the way national park spots.

Sean Smith is a former Yellowstone Ranger, and an award winning conservationist, TEDx speaker, and author. He writes national park thrillers from his home in the shadow of Mount Rainier National Park. To learn more about his thrillers click here or follow him on twitter: @parkthrillers

Lost Cause: It's turning up everywhere!

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Dual Mandate? Time for some balance

"Sentinel Bridge & Half Dome" by Jim Getchell 

In August the National Park Service (NPS) will celebrate its 99^th birthday, and begin what’s expected to be a yearlong celebration leading to its centennial in 2016. Americans can expect 365 days of events, speeches, and celebrations. But many are wondering if the centennial will cause the NPS to take a serious look at its management.

The history of the National Park Service’s (NPS) recreation management is a mixed bag at best. Yellowstone, the world's first national park, was set aside in 1872 as "pleasuring-ground" to protect from injury or spoilation, of all timber, mineral deposits, natural curiosities, or wonders within.” Later in 1916, Congress established the National NPS with its primary mission being"....to conserve the scenery and the natural and historic objects and the wild life therein and to provide for the enjoyment of the same in such manner and by such means as will leave them unimpaired for the enjoyment of future generations."

From nearly day one, many have maintained that congress gave the NPS a dual mandate, one that requires the NPS to "balance" preservation with recreation. Yet despite the fact that neither the Organic nor Yellowstone Acts mention recreation specifically, this perceived need to balance conservation with recreation doesn't comply with federal law, court cases or even NPS policy.

Congress recognizing the confusion some had over its original intent in the 1916 Organic Act passed additional legislation that America's National Parks are to be managed as a single system and that no activity is to be authorized "in derogation of the values and purposes for which [the parks] have been established.” In other words, recreation or use can only be authorized if it doesn’t degrade the parks.

The NPS knows they only have one mandate. In its 2006 management policies the agency states "when there is a conflict between conserving resources and values and providing for enjoyment of them, conservation is to be predominant. This is how courts have consistently interpreted the Organic Act." As such, the NPS understands that it can only authorize those activities that are "appropriate" for the national parks.

This language plainly implies that not all activities are appropriate for the park system, or put another way some are inappropriate. Moreover, the guidance implies that the potential list of appropriate activities should be extremely small.

It couldn't be more clear that conservation of park resources is the NPS' primary mission. Yet, despite Congress' intent, the NPS' belief in its dual mandate still persists. Why? 

Sadly, it's because the agency's actual approach to recreation management is far more lax than the law requires and some believe is an abuse of their discretionary authority.

A recent Freedom of Information Act (FOIA) request revealed the NPS has not completed even one system wide recreation review. Just as troubling the agency doesn't know of a single park that has ever conducted a comprehensive recreation review either. So, despite Congress' clear intent, it appears the NPS lacks even a basic understanding of recreation impacts.

Yet, this failure to fully investigate likely led to far more liberal recreation management than Congress intended. Sadly, with no information the NPS seems to conclude there is no problem, a kind of see no evil, there is no evil self-perpetuating management cycle.

Without a comprehensive recreation review it’s impossible for the NPS to say it’s complying with its legal mandates to leave park resources unimpaired for the enjoyment of future generations.

However, despite this lack of information the NPS nearly every year considers and accommodates new and arguably questionable recreation. In the meantime, the agency has no way of knowing the impact upon the system’s natural wonders and wildlife. Many ask where is the balance?

In 2016, the NPS will celebrate its 100 anniversary. The federal government is already making preparations to rightly celebrate what some have called "America's greatest gift to world culture." Early plans include public events across the country, with an emphasis being placed on reconnecting the people to their parks. Many argue this re-connection is necessary because the parks are losing relevance.

Hogwash! 

Last year the National Park System saw record visitation. Many individual parks like Montana's Glacier broke visitation numbers as well. Americans and the world love the national parks. Why? A case could be made it’s because national parks provide some of the last truly authentic experiences. They are places where one can escape the stress and hassle of everyday life and connect with something bigger.

Sadly, it appears the NPS has forgotten this simple fact, as it moves forward with plans to authorize an ever expanding list of questionable activities, partnerships, and events. Yet we shouldn’t forget the only reason we are able to debate the park system's relevance today, is because our ancestors put aside their short-term wants and desires and set it aside. 

The NPS’ upcoming 100^th anniversary celebration is sure to include many parties, special events, and speeches in honor of its mission. Perhaps to truly honor its mission the NPS should bring actual balance to its management and conduct its first comprehensive recreation review. If it does, future generations are certain to thank us for our foresight. 

Sean Smith is a former Yellowstone Ranger, and an award winning conservationist, TEDx speaker, and author. He writes national park thrillers from his home in the shadow of Mount Rainier National Park. To learn more about his thrillers click here or follow him on twitter: @parkthrillers

Need To Know: National Park Thriller Draft Cover

Here is the next draft cover for Need to Know. What do you think?

This is the third Grayson Cole thriller. This time Grayson is at Mount Rainier National Park, the location of the world's first UFO sighting. Since then, buried high on its volcanic slopes is a secret, on world government's would kill to protect.

Look for Need to Know in 2016.  Until then check out the other Grayson Cole thrillers here.

What I learned visiting national parks with my Dad

My Dad and I sledding at Mount Rainier 1969

In honor of father's day, I thought I'd pull together a list of my favorite National Parks to visit with my dad.

Growing up my parents made it a priority to take my brother and I to national parks every summer. We trek across America from New York to California, from Alaska to Florida. On these trips we always stopped at national parks. I didn't always appreciate these trips, especially as a teenager. But as I've gotten older, I've realized how special these places and these family adventures truly are. So thanks dad (and mom) for taking me (sometimes kicking and screaming) to the following parks.

5. Gettysburg: Visiting this park with my dad, we learned that real people made real sacrifices in order for us to enjoy the country we have today.  A lot like my dad, sacrificed for our family.

My Dad, brother and I hiking in the foothills around Denali. 1972

4. Yellowstone: Standing in awe of Old Faithful, my father made sure to teach me that like our forefathers who set aside Yellowstone for us,  I too must think about the future. We are to set aside something for the days to come.

3. Denali: Gazing up at Denali with my father taught me to be humble. He made sure to instill within me that there are forces in this world greater than ourselves. This understanding can be overwhelming, but he also showed me it can be empowering as we are part of something grand.

My Dad, brother, and I climbing Rainier in 1989

2. Mount Rainier: Growing up in Washington our regular trips to Rainier revealed that places of wonder, places of majesty are all around us. We don't have to go far they can even be in our backyard, we just have to know where to look.

1. Glacier: Every summer my parents would load up our camper and head to Glacier. We hiked, climbed and camped in nearly every part of that park. Going to Glacier will always be a special place and whenever I stand on the shores of St. Mary's Lake or take in the view at Logan pass, I will think of my dad. Going to Glacier taught me you can go home again.

Happy fathers day Dad, I hope you know that every time I visit a national park, I will think of you.

Sean Smith is a former Yellowstone Ranger, and an award winning conservationist, TEDx speaker, and author. He writes national park thrillers from his home in the shadow of Mount Rainier National Park. To learn more about his conservation work and novels, follow him on twitter: @parkthrillers